41. Penzance to Porthcurno

I am away quite early from my B&B on the seafront in Penzance. Its a chilly sunny start, with rain showers forecast for the rest of the day. I make my way to the bus stop to catch the bus to Porthcurno. However, I can see no bus listed for this time. Grrr! I decide to carry on walking towards Porthcurno and get a bus back from there to Penzance. I don’t have any idea what time the buses go from there, so I decide to take a risk and see how it goes.

Looking across Newlyn harbour towards Penzance

The long walk along the promenade towards Newlyn is obstructed by a series of construction projects on the promenade itself. In no time I have entered Newlyn and walked around the harbour. I pass the large fish market and the impressive new harbour specifically built for the fishing fleet. I can see St Michaels Mount across the bay, soon I will turn south and lose sight of it. Not long after I get caught in a short sharp rain shower. I take shelter under a small tree which keeps me dry.


Just as approach Mousehole, I pass the memorial and site of the Penlee Lifeboat, which was tragically lost in 1981 while attempting to rescue crew from the coaster Union Star. I enter the charming and typical Cornish village of Mousehole with its tight and closely packed streets. I climb up a steep hill out of Mousehole. I pass the small hamlet of Lamorna and continue towards the oddly named Tater-du lighthouse. The cliffs are now composed of typical granite blocks.

Cobble beach at Paynters Cove
Penberth Cove

At Paynters Cove the path drops down to the cobble beach and I walk over the large cobbles for about 60 metres. There are a number of rusty wrecks and other debris from shipwrecks on the beach. I arrive at Penberth Cove, with its large 19th century capstan and fishing boats. The hamlet is often painted because of its unspoilt beauty. I round Cribba Head and walk above large granite cliffs down to Porthcurno. I see where the old cables from the late 19th century come ashore. I want to explore the area, however, just as I arrive in the car park so does a bus. The bus is going back to Penzance and I don’t know when the next will be. So I hop on and enjoy a lovely ride back to Penzance on the top deck. The walk has taken 4.25 hrs.

Distance today = 11.5 miles
Total distance =   610 miles


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