329. Birchington-on-Sea to Sandwich

At my B&B I gave some thought to how I would tackle today’s walk. The forecast was to be quite a hot day, however, the first public transport of the morning to Sandwich was 6:46. So I decided I would simply drive to yesterday’s finishing point in Birchington-on-Sea and start walking from there. Normally, I always like to get the public transport out of the way first, as the delays of the morning start to stack up as you move through the day. Much better to walk to your own transport i.e. car. This meant I could start my walk whenever I liked, given the constraints around daylight. I knew the sun rose around 5:15, but I also knew that it was light just after 04:00. So I decided to start my walk then, just needed to get about 7 hours sleep. Unfortunately, a newly arrived couple returned to the B&B at 22:00 and started talking and playing music in the adjacent kitchen and living room. I heard her relating her complete life-story through the paper thin bedroom door. At 23:00 I had had enough and went out and told her to keep the noise down. She said sorry and didn’t realise anyone else was in, I drew her attention to the numbers on the bedroom doors and this was a B&B. It did not take long for her to start up again and she continued almost none stop until just after midnight. I got up at 04:00 and remembered to give the front door an extra strong slam as I departed the B&B.

I parked up in Birchington and set off along the coast. The sun had almost 50 minutes before it rose, but the glow from the east meant it was quite light. I must admit I like walking very early in the morning, it’s generally cooler, quieter, still and very little traffic around. I dropped down onto the sea wall that ran below the chalk cliffs which had just made a dramatic appearance. After a mile the sea wall stopped and I had to transfer back up onto the cliff top. At 05:26 I got an unobstructed view of the sun rising across the North Sea, it was something had I had not seen for many years.
It was very easy walking as I headed through residential streets and cliff top paths towards Margate. After passing through Westgate-on-Sea I arrived in Margate. The council workers were busy preparing the town for another set of visitors, sweeping the streets, cleaning-up the litter and combing the beach. It was not long before I had passed through all the typical seaside attractions and moved into more residential areas. I passed by the road where my noisy B&B had been the previous night. The dry short-cropped grass was really easy and comfortable to walk along.

Pre-dawn light looking towards Margate
One of the many access points off/onto the sea wall and path
Looking towards ships anchored off the Kent Coast
The sun finally makes an appearance over the North Sea
The beach and Margate seafront
The ‘Spoons’ in Margate – The Mechanical Elephant
The old Parade Cinema in Margate
One of the access cuttings down to the beach

Gradually, I began to slowly turn south which meant I was leaving the east coast behind and making my way onto the south coast of England. I passed by the rather ugly looking Neptune’s tower and the nearby Kingsgate Castle built for Lord Holland back in 1760 out of black flint nodules. Suddenly the landscape and architecture began to change, with private residential estates with security barriers and grand houses. I continued around North Foreland which was basically the ‘heel’ of England. I passed North Foreland lighthouse, of great importance in warning off shipping from the treacherous Goodwin Sands.

I followed the road into Broadstairs. By this time the sun was well up and the day was just beggining for many now out and about. The cliffs were quite dramatic here and fortunately I could continue along the top of them. I did see a couple of references to Charles Dickens who used to frequent Broadstairs regularly and wrote some of his famous books here.

As I emerged onto the grassy cliff top path at Dumpton Point I saw my second fantastic sight of the morning. Way to the south I could easily see a large land mass, “no, it could not be could it?” I asked a passing chap if that was France in the distance? He said yes, it was the Pas-de-Calais area. I was thrilled and amazed, as I thought the French coast was only visible from Dover/Folkestone, but being on the cliff top on such a fine clear morning I could look across the 32 miles towards France. This meant I had seen 6 countries on my coastal walk, England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland, Ireland and France.

I arrived in Ramsgate and had great views southwards across Sandwich Bay towards Deal and the Straits of Dover. I did not see much of Ramsgate, other than the large harbour and Port, which still runs ferries across to Ostend. I soon left Ramsgate behind as followed the Viking Trail and England Coast Path into Pegwell Bay. At Cliffsend I came upon the Hugin, a Viking replica ship that arrived from Denmark in 1949 to commemorate the 1500th anniversary of the landing of Saxon chiefs Hengist and Horsa, although the boat actually landed at Viking Bay in Broadstairs.

I entered Pegwell Bay Country Park and soon passed a refreshment cabin where I was able to buy a lovely cold soft drink. Part of my chosen route was blocked off due to some construction work, so I followed the alternative England Coast Path route along the busy A256. I turned off the main road after a mile and walked through the large Bio Mass Power station at North Stonar. I crossed over Sandwich haven and into the small historic market town. I headed towards the rail station for the journey back to Birchington….I finished the walk at 10:30. I wish I could do all my walks this early in the morning.

Neptune’s Tower
Kingsgate Castle – now apartments
Kingsgate Bay
North Foreland lighthouse
Looking down on Viking Bay and the beach at Broadstairs
Looking back at Broadstairs
The coast of France 32 miles distant
Zoomed shot of the Pas-de-Calais
Heading towards Ramsgate with Deal in the far distance
Lift down to Ramsgate beach
Ramsgate’s busy harbour
Viking replica ship The Hugin at Cliffend
Crossing Sandwich Haven into Sandwich

Distance today = 20 miles
Total distance =6,044 miles

 

 

 

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