35a. Place to Truro

It’s been a while since I did any of my Use of Ferries walks. These are basically walks to fill in the ‘gaps’ left when I did the South West Coastal Path over 6 years ago and used local ferries to cross rivers and estuaries. Over the years I have been busy ‘filling’ in these ‘gaps’ to achieve a full walking record around the coast of Great Britain. As it stands I have two remaining rivers to complete, the Helford River and Falmouth River. I hope to get both of these walks done before the ferries stop in late September/October, as I still utilise the ferries to link the two walking points around the estuaries to the first bridging point.

The largest estuary walk would be the walk around the huge Falmouth Estuary, the third deepest harbour in the world and composed of a myriad of tributary rivers, creeks, inlets and pools. It would take two days to walk around.

Today I would do the first days walk around the estuary, although for logistical reasons, I would have to return for the second walk another time. The logistical reason being the unavailability of affordable accommodation in the area, £130 per night is not affordable in my book. This also meant a long day out from Shropshire, as the mileage to this part of Cornwall was 280 miles – one way!

The plan was to complete a very broad sweep around the numerous rivers and creeks avoiding the small peninsulas and promontories which had very few footpaths or right of way around them. I decided to make Truro, the County town of Cornwall, my end point for this walk, so that’s the place I headed for on the overnight drive down. I parked at Truro railway station, where parking was only £2.70 all day on a Saturday/Sunday; compared to a Council Car Park at £8.20 any day!

Another consideration for today’s walk was the route. Cornwall’s roads are notorious for their lack of footpaths and verges to safely walk along, in fact some of the roads have almost vertical high banks either side, with no escape or refuge from any traffic. As you can imagine, there are many tourists around at this time of the year, so avoiding the traffic was a key priority.

I decided to get the 07:22 #U1 bus to Falmouth and then pick up the water ferry to St. Mawes and then a smaller ferry onto Place, a small jetty on the end of the Roseland Peninsular. Both ferries were very busy, particularly the smaller Place ferry, where the number was restricted to 12 passengers at a time. Because this ferry was only 5 minutes either way, the ferry made a couple of trips to get the other walkers across.

After all the travel and planning I finally set off at 09:15 on a beautiful sunny morning from Place. I climbed up a well-trodden path up the hill towards the small village of Bohortha, here I joined public road. I continued undisturbed along the empty road to Porth farm. To my right, just 200m away, was the South West Coastal Path and of course the sea. From Porth farm I continued along a green lane which was also a bridle way. I met no one until I descended into the small village of Portscatho, which I walked through some 6 years ago. I retraced my steps along the SWCP a short distance through the village, but as the coastal path continued along the coast I took a minor road with only the odd car. By the time I reached the village of Curgurrell I had to turn inland away from the coast.

I continued along a series of twisting lanes through the hamlets of Treluggan, Treworthal, Trenestrall, Trelonk and Trethella before descending to the village of Ruan Lanihorne. Although I did not walk through the village but instead took a lower road alongside the River Ruan. The Ruan joined up with the River Fal, which I crossed over at the Sett Bridge. The Fal at this point was just a small river and emptied into an upper tidal estuary surrounded by wooded hills. The area was very secluded and quiet, apart from the odd walker and car; the whole area was a delight to walk through. I left the road again and took a bridle path that led to the hamlet of Gare, from there it was back to the twisty turning roads, albeit without cars.
I passed through the small hamlets of Little Tregerrick, Tregerrick and Carharthen before I started to hear the traffic coming from the A390 at Tresillian, where I was heading next. The traffic on the A390 was very heavy, but it was reassuring to have a footpath to walk along before I turned off the main road. The next mile along a minor road into Truro was horrible, as an accident on the A39 near to Truro had cars being diverted down to this small road I was trying to walk along. It was actually chaotic with cars unable to get past each other and me being unable to pass them either! At times I was actually standing in the road waiting to pass cars! I was glad to descend into Truro itself and head back to the railway station. I did not explore the City of Truro, perhaps I may do that on my next trip.

Apart from the chaos of the final bit of road into Truro, the walk had been wonderful, few people and even fewer cars made it a truly enjoyable walk and place to be.

Waiting for the St Mawes Ferry at Falmouth
Leaving Falmouth
Arriving St. Mawes
Leaving St. Mawes
Looking northwards along the coast at Porth Farm
Looking back at Portscatho
Porthcurnick Beach
Looking back at Porthcurnick Beach
Heavy going near the Tuckingmill Creek
Almost hidden from view descending into Ruan Lanihorne
The Sett Bridge over the River Fal
A Wheatear near Gare
Walking alongside the Tresillian River
Crossing the River Truro in Truro

Distance today = 17 miles
Total distance = 6,257 miles



329. Birchington-on-Sea to Sandwich

At my B&B I gave some thought to how I would tackle today’s walk. The forecast was to be quite a hot day, however, the first public transport of the morning to Sandwich was 6:46. So I decided I would simply drive to yesterday’s finishing point in Birchington-on-Sea and start walking from there. Normally, I always like to get the public transport out of the way first, as the delays of the morning start to stack up as you move through the day. Much better to walk to your own transport i.e. car. This meant I could start my walk whenever I liked, given the constraints around daylight. I knew the sun rose around 5:15, but I also knew that it was light just after 04:00. So I decided to start my walk then, just needed to get about 7 hours sleep. Unfortunately, a newly arrived couple returned to the B&B at 22:00 and started talking and playing music in the adjacent kitchen and living room. I heard her relating her complete life-story through the paper thin bedroom door. At 23:00 I had had enough and went out and told her to keep the noise down. She said sorry and didn’t realise anyone else was in, I drew her attention to the numbers on the bedroom doors and this was a B&B. It did not take long for her to start up again and she continued almost none stop until just after midnight. I got up at 04:00 and remembered to give the front door an extra strong slam as I departed the B&B.

I parked up in Birchington and set off along the coast. The sun had almost 50 minutes before it rose, but the glow from the east meant it was quite light. I must admit I like walking very early in the morning, it’s generally cooler, quieter, still and very little traffic around. I dropped down onto the sea wall that ran below the chalk cliffs which had just made a dramatic appearance. After a mile the sea wall stopped and I had to transfer back up onto the cliff top. At 05:26 I got an unobstructed view of the sun rising across the North Sea, it was something had I had not seen for many years.
It was very easy walking as I headed through residential streets and cliff top paths towards Margate. After passing through Westgate-on-Sea I arrived in Margate. The council workers were busy preparing the town for another set of visitors, sweeping the streets, cleaning-up the litter and combing the beach. It was not long before I had passed through all the typical seaside attractions and moved into more residential areas. I passed by the road where my noisy B&B had been the previous night. The dry short-cropped grass was really easy and comfortable to walk along.

Pre-dawn light looking towards Margate
One of the many access points off/onto the sea wall and path
Looking towards ships anchored off the Kent Coast
The sun finally makes an appearance over the North Sea
The beach and Margate seafront
The ‘Spoons’ in Margate – The Mechanical Elephant
The old Parade Cinema in Margate
One of the access cuttings down to the beach

Gradually, I began to slowly turn south which meant I was leaving the east coast behind and making my way onto the south coast of England. I passed by the rather ugly looking Neptune’s tower and the nearby Kingsgate Castle built for Lord Holland back in 1760 out of black flint nodules. Suddenly the landscape and architecture began to change, with private residential estates with security barriers and grand houses. I continued around North Foreland which was basically the ‘heel’ of England. I passed North Foreland lighthouse, of great importance in warning off shipping from the treacherous Goodwin Sands.

I followed the road into Broadstairs. By this time the sun was well up and the day was just beggining for many now out and about. The cliffs were quite dramatic here and fortunately I could continue along the top of them. I did see a couple of references to Charles Dickens who used to frequent Broadstairs regularly and wrote some of his famous books here.

As I emerged onto the grassy cliff top path at Dumpton Point I saw my second fantastic sight of the morning. Way to the south I could easily see a large land mass, “no, it could not be could it?” I asked a passing chap if that was France in the distance? He said yes, it was the Pas-de-Calais area. I was thrilled and amazed, as I thought the French coast was only visible from Dover/Folkestone, but being on the cliff top on such a fine clear morning I could look across the 32 miles towards France. This meant I had seen 6 countries on my coastal walk, England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland, Ireland and France.

I arrived in Ramsgate and had great views southwards across Sandwich Bay towards Deal and the Straits of Dover. I did not see much of Ramsgate, other than the large harbour and Port, which still runs ferries across to Ostend. I soon left Ramsgate behind as followed the Viking Trail and England Coast Path into Pegwell Bay. At Cliffsend I came upon the Hugin, a Viking replica ship that arrived from Denmark in 1949 to commemorate the 1500th anniversary of the landing of Saxon chiefs Hengist and Horsa, although the boat actually landed at Viking Bay in Broadstairs.

I entered Pegwell Bay Country Park and soon passed a refreshment cabin where I was able to buy a lovely cold soft drink. Part of my chosen route was blocked off due to some construction work, so I followed the alternative England Coast Path route along the busy A256. I turned off the main road after a mile and walked through the large Bio Mass Power station at North Stonar. I crossed over Sandwich haven and into the small historic market town. I headed towards the rail station for the journey back to Birchington….I finished the walk at 10:30. I wish I could do all my walks this early in the morning.

Neptune’s Tower
Kingsgate Castle – now apartments
Kingsgate Bay
North Foreland lighthouse
Looking down on Viking Bay and the beach at Broadstairs
Looking back at Broadstairs
The coast of France 32 miles distant
Zoomed shot of the Pas-de-Calais
Heading towards Ramsgate with Deal in the far distance
Lift down to Ramsgate beach
Ramsgate’s busy harbour
Viking replica ship The Hugin at Cliffend
Crossing Sandwich Haven into Sandwich

Distance today = 20 miles
Total distance =6,044 miles




328. Faversham to Birchington-on-Sea

I decided to get two days walking in along the Kent coast before the month end. There’s no way I am going to catch-up with all the lost time over the lockdown period, but a few extra days here and there will help. I decided on a single night stop-over and chose a B&B in Margate, at a reasonable rate of £40. After booking online I later noticed that they wanted a £200 deposit for breakages – I would certainly never agree to that given I was only in the room for 10 hours and the furniture value in the room was less than £50, should I go on a wild drunken wrecking spree!

I left Shropshire very early, eager to beat the early morning commuter traffic on the M1 and M25. With speed restrictions on motorway roadworks raised from 50mph to 60 mph I made swift progress. I even got over the Dartford Crossing before 06:00, saving the toll fare, although I still have about £14 credit on my Gov.Uk Dartford crossing account. Having an account saves the hassle of remembering to pay and you save 50p on the normal £2.50 crossing toll.

I drove to and parked in the small seaside resort of Birchington-on-Sea. It was as far I would have liked to walk for the day, while saving myself for the following day’s walk. I parked in the Parade which had free all day parking. I made my way along the coast a little before heading inland through residential streets to the train station at Birchington. The train was virtually empty, mind you it was 06:30!

I walked through the empty streets of Faversham calling in at a cafe to buy a latte ‘to-go’. Like a few weeks ago I was very impressed with Faversham and its buildings. I headed out along Faversham Creek, on the opposite bank to my last walk. I passed through boatyards and past a large sewage works. When I reached the hamlet of Nagden I followed a footpath across Graveney Marshes, although it was actually through a field of barley. I noticed signs against a plan for a large solar farm on the Marshes. Most of the ‘marsh’ appeared to contain crops, so was agricultural land, not natural marsh.

I eventually re-joined the Saxon Shore way on the sea bank which formed the southern shore of the River Swale. The Isle of Sheppey was still visible a short distance across the Swale. The morning was glorious sunshine, with just a sprinkling of clouds being driven by a stiff breeze, which was at my back for most of the walk. As I made my way along the sea bank, the Swale widened and Sheppey began to be left behind and views back across the Thames Estuary revealed a distant Southend-on-Sea.

I passed into the residential area of Seasalter and then into the town of Whitstable. The town was very busy with people outside cafes and bars. I did not linger and passed the historic harbour onto Tankerton Beach on the eastern side of Whitstable. The promenade was very busy with many families cycling along the sea front or paddling/swimming from the shingle shore. It was not long before I arrived at another seaside resort, that of Herne Bay. For some miles a rather isolated structure situated about a kilometre offshore had caught my eye. Looking at my map is was soon apparent that the offshore structure was once part of a long pier. In fact this was the third pier at Herne Bay. Back in 1978 after large storms the central part of the pier collapsed into the sea, weakened it has been claimed, by the WW2 intentional destruction to prevent a landing stage for any German invasion.

The wharf at Faversham
Heading across Graveney Marshes
On the sea wall heading east
Obviously locals who know that walking below mean high water is permissable
Arriving in Whitstable
The Pier, whats left of it at Herne Bay
Bronze statue of Amy Johnson, whose plane went missing off Herne Bay in 1941
The Clock Tower – built in 1837 and believed to be one of the earliest purpose-built, free-standing clock towers in the United Kingdom
Heading towards Bishopstone below Beltinge Cliff

I continued out of the town towards Bishopstone where the sea wall promenade stopped and I followed a rising path up onto the cliff-top and emerged into Reculver Country Park. The path along the top of the cliff was a lovely springy grass turf, which made for very easy walking. I was heading for two large towers, the remnants of St. Mary’s church, which was actually part of a monastery built on the site of a Roman fort – Regulbium,  abandoned around 400AD. I read an info board describing what would have been seen from this elevated position 1800 years ago. The shoreline would have been very close to the eastern side of the fort with the Wantsum Channel creating an island called Thanet. Still known today as the Isle of Thanet it was the area I was heading for and the towns of Birchington, Margate, Broadstairs and Ramsgate.

I dropped down to the sea wall which ran for over 3 miles as the Thanet Coast Path into Birchington. The resort of Birchington was quite busy with holiday makers on the shingle beach and the play areas surrounding the beach. I reached my car, my feet were hurting and I’m glad to have finished this long stretch.

The towers of St Mary’s at Reculver
The ruins of St. Marys, the towers were retained for navigation aids
Original Roman wall near the East gate guardhouse, currently under excavation
Heading towards Birchington-on-Sea
A bicycle made for five!?
Approaching Birchington-on-Sea

Distance today = 21 miles
Total distance =6,024 miles



53a. Rock to Padstow

This was to be a single day’s walk around one of the estuaries that I used a ferry for while walking the South West Coastal Path back in 2015. I have been slowly ‘plugging’ away at these ‘gaps’ to ensure that I have a continuous record of walking around the coastline of Great Britain. As I have mentioned before it’s about joining up the footprints! Because I have three of these ‘gaps’ to finish, all in Cornwall, I decided that I would do a single trip today and complete the remaing ‘gaps’ over two days in a months’ time.

This really was a long way to drive (534 miles) for just 15 miles of walking! But it needed to be done. The walk would be very straight forward, I would  park in Wadebridge, which is the first walkable bridging point over the River Camel, I would  then walk towards Rock to use the ferry to cross over The Camel to Padstow. I would then follow the Camel Trail back to Wadebridge. The trouble was the first few miles of the walk from Wadebridge to Rock was along the B3314, which had no verge in many places and subject regular and high speed traffic. There was no way I was walking along that road – at any time of the day! I opted instead to take a wider route out towards the village of Chapel Amber using footpaths, green lanes and minor lanes.

I had driven through the night from Shropshire and set off at 06:15. It was a lovely summer Sunday morning when I set off from a small industrial park in Wadebridge. The amount of dew on the grass ensured that I would have very wet feet after a few miles of walking. I continued through the small farm at Tregorden following a green lane. As I approached Chapel Amble I was confronted by a small herd of cows. They appeared very curious with me and started following me. I managed to cross a small bridge and soon realised that the path I had been following had disappeared – I would have to walk back through the cattle who had gathered at the bridge. There was no way around these animals so I decided to walk straight at them! They gave way, but were still very frisky! I managed to find a gap in the hedge and jumped through. The footpath here was really overgrown, so I suspect that the cattle did not see many walkers.

I continued through the small village of Chapel Amble, then taking a narrow lane out to Middle and Lower Amble. I arrived on the B3314 at Gutt Bridge, where I would try and find a footpath which was marked on my OS map. My suspicions about the road where confirmed by the volume and speed of the vehicles using this road. I found a hole in the hedge and climbed a small stile. I emerged into a field full of cattle…again! They were also very curious and made towards me. I ensured I stayed to the side of the field enabling a place to bolt to – if needed. Seeing that they were getting too close to me, I told them to “bugger off” which they did!

I was now close to the River Camel, but now had to climb onto higher ground. I emerged on another quiet lane and passed through the farms at Tregenna, Trevelver and Carlyon. I could now see down onto the Camel and ahead to Padstow. From Carlyon I tried to follow another footpath. Like many of the footpaths in this part of Cornwall, the paths have a start point but once you are on them tend to disappear. I set off across a field of waist-high barley. I did not have a clue where the path would emerge on the road whic I was aiming for. I stumbled through a hedge onto a lane and should have left it at that, but I could see a footpath marked which would take me into Rock. I set off along a footpath, which dumped into …………another field of cattle, who were enclosed by an electric fence. The cattle appeared not interested in me, but the footpath signs had disappeared. I wandered around a couple of fields and pushed through onto what appeared to be a well-used footpath. I walked into the small hamlet of Porthilly, on the banks of the Camel. The tide was out so I could walk across Porthilly Cove towards the main road into Rock.

Rock was busy when I arrived at the ferry point. A few people were already waiting for the ferry, which I could I see was still tied up across the river at Padstow. I donned my gloves and mask, as did the other passengers when the ferry arrived. I could see that the ferry was selling face masks at 50p each. I paid the £3 charge using a contactless card. I spoke to another walker who was walking the SWCP, he was hoping to reach Newquay that night.

Leaving Wadebridge early in the morning
Passing through the village of Chapel Amble
Looking down on the Camel from near Trevelver
Heading towards Rock on a footpath[?] through waist-high Barley
Looking across the Camel towards Pasdstow from near Rock
On the beach at Porthilly
Preparing to board the ferry across to Padstow

I set off through Padstow, which was not as busy the last time I walked through it – certainly different times and a different world! I would now follow the Camel Trail back to Wadebridge. This Trail was constructed on the route of the old London and South Western railway line which last carried passengers back in 1967. Today, it is mostly used by walkers and cyclists and continues on past Wadebridge towards Bodmin. Because the route is very flat and wide, it is heavily used by bicycles and a flourishing range of bicycle hire shops have sprung up in Wadebridge. I only counted a couple of other walkers along the route but hundreds of cyclists. The walk along the trail became a bit tedious, with its constant flow of cyclists and linear route, but the occasional glimpse of the Camel Estuary was very enjoyable. As I neared Wadebridge I could look across The Camel and see the opposite bank. It confirmed what I indeed suspected – that, although no path was marked on the map, I could have walked along the high water mark of the Camel for just 2km and bypassed the B3314 and the fields of many cows.

Padstow harbour
Rick Steins Cookery School HQ
Old railway Bridge crossing Little Petherick Creek
Looking down the Camel towards the sea
Looking back towards Padstow
People out on the river enjoying themselves
Approaching Wadebridge and about to pass under the A39
One of the many bicyle hire shops in Wadebridge
The Old Bridge across The Camel in Wadebridge

Distance today = 15 miles
Total distance = 5,945 miles



324. Swale to Faversham

It was back to the mainland for today’s walk, which meant driving from my B&B on the Isle of Sheppey to the small medieval town of Faversham further up the Kent coast.

I had located a free car park close to the Albion pub alongside Faversham Creek in the centre of Faversham. I now had to get back to Swale where I would begin today’s walk. I walked through the deserted town centre, which was very pretty, particularly the Elizabethan Guildhall with its wooden underlying timbers. I caught a train first to Sittingbourne then connected for the short journey to Swale on the Sheerness bound train. There were few people about and all including the staff wore face masks.

I had walked through Swale when I first walked to Sheppey back in March. For the life of me I could not understand why a train station was built there, because apart from the small train halt, there was nothing else around it. I made my way across the road and picked up a small road for a short distance that lead onto the sea bank and the Saxon Shore Way, which I would remain on for the rest of the day.

It was another lovely summer’s day, but not as windy as yesterday. Today’s walk would be following the River Swale eastwards on its sea bank with a number of inland incursions to get around various creeks. The first obstacle was Ridham Dock which involved a minor inland diversion before emerging back on the sea wall. Large scale industry dominates this area and none more so than the newly built Wheelabrator Kemsley K3 generating power and heat station, producing 50Mw from recycled waste material and supplying all the electrical power to the adjacent large paper mill. The coloured rectangular panels are a striking feature on the local landscape.

Looking back at the bridges which cross The Swale to the Isle of Sheppey
Heading eastwards along The Swale towards Ridham Dock
Wheelabrator Kemsley K3 generating power and heat station

I passed around the old landfill sites at Kemsley Marshes and entered the first of the inland creeks which run into The Swale, this one was Milton Creek. I had to walk about a mile before I was able to cross over the creek via a busy road bridge. It was then a case of following the Saxon Shore way back out to the Swale. For the next 5 to 6 miles I stayed on the sea bank which had good views across The Swale to the Isle of Sheppey. Apart from a small incursion to get around Conyer Creek, the walking underfoot was excellent. My feet started to ache again, but I knew I could easily get to the end of the walk.

As I approached Uplees Marshes I could see the foundations of what I thought where old military type buildings, in fact they were once part of huge explosives factory and the scene of a tragic accident in 1916. A massive explosion of 15 tons of TNT and 150 tons of ammonium nitrate led to 116 men and boys losing their lives with the shock wave shattering windows in Southend and the tremor felt in Norwich. I was not aware of this event as I continued along the sea bank, but I later found out that most of the dead were buried in a communal grave in Faversham cemetery.

My final incursion inland took me across Oare Marshes following the Oare Creek and thence back out on the other side to join up with Faversham Creek and the walk around Ham Marshes and into Faversham itself.

The bridge over Milton Creek
Low tide on the Swale with rusting hulls on show
Heading down Conyer Creek
The marina at Conyer
One of the many foundations for the large explosives factory scene of a huge explosion in 1916 at Uplees Marsh
The old ferry jetty across to Sheppey
Heading down Oare Creek
Boatyard at Hollowshore across Oare Creek
Heading down Faversham Creek
Heading into Faversham
Shepherds Neame Brewery, Faversham
The Guildhall in Faversham
A cow tailed pump from the mid-19th century


Distance today = 18 miles
Total distance = 5,930 miles




323. Queenborough to Leysdown-on-Sea via Isle of Harty

Well, like so many others it has been a long time since I had been able to get out and do some coastal walking. However, the time seems to have gone quite quickly with the many DIY ‘projects’ I have managed to complete during the ‘lock-down’; I now have a rebuilt kitchen, laundry room, hall, office as well as a pristine garden!

Because I had done no serious walking for over 3 months I decided to ease back into it. Because the planned easing of lockdown regulations in Scotland were not due until 15th July, this meant I would be returning to Kent and the Isle of Sheppey. I opted for two full days of walking, unsure of how my body would react to the lack of regular hard walking exercise.

My first days on the Isle of Sheppey back in March had not been that good, with an obvious disparity between footpaths marked on the OS map and what was actually on the ground! After doing further research I could see that other walkers had struggled to do a complete loop of the island, due to lack footpaths. I decided that I would continue out to Leysdown-on-Sea and then do a circular walk out to the Isle of Harty.

I set off very on a Sunday morning heading to Queenborough on the Isle of Sheppey where I parked. The reason for the early start to the walk was because I intended to walk along the islands northern shore, which could only be completed at low tide or a few hours either side of it. Low tide was 07:30 so I needed to make an early start.

I set off through the almost deserted streets of Queenborough. I soon reached the shoreline of the West Swale which ran into the River Medway. I made my way along the concrete sea wall for a short distance with views across the River Medway to The Isle of Grain. The path then headed inland as I became sandwiched between industrial sites either side of me, including a huge car storage area parked full of imported Vw’s, Audi’s, Skoda etc…The path emerged onto the A249 and entered Sheerness at a place called Bluetown, once a hive of shipbuilding activity but long since gone. After passing Tesco’s I emerged onto the sea defence promenade where I had views NW towards Southend-on-Sea, north out towards The North Sea and east along Sheppey’s northern coastline. I did not know how long I had to complete the shoreline walk either side of low tide towards Leysdown, so I kept up a brisk pace.

I passed by the regulatory early morning joggers and dog walkers as I entered the small village of Minster, here the promenade ended abruptly with the appearance of the cliff-line about 20m high. The whole cliff-line along this section of the coast has been “slumping” at an alarming rate for some time. The walk along the beach was a lot better than expected and quite easy underfoot. I was aware of a recent cliff fall at the end of May 2020, when a house, garage and cars disappeared over the edge. The lady owner bought the property in 2018 for £195,000 as a cash buyer and with no house insurance. A short 20 minute walk along this section of the coastline, would have saved her a considerable amount of money.

Looking west over the West Swale and Medway towards Rochester from Queenborough
Heading through the car storage area near Sheerness
Looking across The Thames Estuary towards Southend-on-Sea
Looking back towards Sheerness Docks
Heading east along the sea wall at Sheerness
Heading east along the promenade at Minster
Heading along the beach near Minster
Old rusting boat hulls near Eastchurch
Recent cliff fall near Eastchurch
All that remains of the house recently lost near Eastchurch
World War 2 pill-boxes near Warden Point

I arrive at Warden Point and passed around a few WW2 pill-boxes which had fallen down from above many years before. Here the walking, for a short distance, became quite muddy. I also met walkers who had ventured out from Warden. I spoke to a local man who pointed to a cliff-fall above us that he witnessed only last week. My walking shoes got very muddy at this point, fortunately I put my gaiters on a few miles back, which kept the worst of the mud off my shoes and trousers.

I continued on along the coast and came into Leysdown-on-Sea which had all the trappings of seaside “fun features” but on a micro-scale. I walked a short distance outside of the town and sat down for a rest, the heat of the day and my full-on exertions made me tired. I then had a decision to make. I wanted to include a loop walk down to Shellness Point and then out to the Isle of Harty and back to Leysdown. Unfortunately I would not be able to get the 13:30 back to Queenborough, but I could see from the timetable that there was an 11:30 bus back to Sheerness, which passed Halfway House, which was only 2km from Queenborough. I could easily walk this 2km back to Queenborough, pick up my car and drive back to Leysdown.

I walked back into Leysdown and waited for #360 wearing my gloves and face mask. Paying contactless was really easy. Other passengers got on and off the bus all adhering to the face covering rule. I got off the bus at Halfway House and walked along a proper footpath the 2km into Queenborough. Picking my car up and driving back to Leysdown I could see the town was very busy – I didn’t see any evidence of social distancing, although I did see some orderly queues for shops.

As my feet were hurting I had a further rest before setting out on my circular walk to the Isle of Harty – obviously, this was not an actual island. I set off along the sea bank and could that the tide was well in now. As I approached Shellness I passed by a Naturist Beach. I’ve walked through a couple of such beaches years ago, but at times when the weather had been awful. As I skirted the beach I could see that many had taken advantage of the warm weather – and there were lots of “bums and willies” on show, but a distinct lack of ladies present.

Throughout the day, although very sunny there had been a very blustery wind blowing, which had to this point been at my back; as I turned to walk SW I headed straight into this stiff but warm headwind. I could now see across the River Swale towards Faversham, where I would be walking tomorrow. I arrived at Sayes Court and the nearby Harty Church. At this point I looped back along a bridle path towards Leysdown. At Muswell Manor I came across a statue of the three Short brothers, who in association with the Wright brothers began building aircraft here at the beginning of the 20th century.

Arriving back at Leysdown would mark the end of my waking on The Isle of Sheppey. Lack of footpaths westwards from the Isle of Harty and Elmley Marshes meant my next day’s walk would commence at the small station halt of Swale, back on the Kent mainland.

Zoomed shot of Red Sands Towers – a set of World War 2 anti-aircraft defences
Looking back towards Warden from Leysdown
Heading towards Shellness Point
The other side of the Naturist Beach
Looking across The Swale towards Faversham from The Isle of Harty
Statue of the Short Brothers near Muswell Manor

Distance today = 18 miles
Total distance = 5,912 miles



322. Gillingham to Queenborough

I made a very early departure from my hotel in Rochester and set off to drive over to the Isle of Sheppey, a place I had never been to before. Even at 06:15 in the morning I could see the days were beginning to draw-out, with the glow from the SE starting to lighten the night’s sky. I drove to and parked in the small town of Queenborough at the library; the car park was free and close to the railway station.

I caught the 06:39 direct train to Gillingham. After popping into Greggs for a coffee and bacon bap I set off through the suburban part of Gillingham heading towards the Saxon Shore Way (SSW). I now have mixed feelings about the Saxon Shore Way, in places it is great and well signposted, in other places it makes pointless excursions and the signage all but disappears. I joined the SSW and stayed on it for about 300m, but then decided to transfer to the nearby road, which had an excellent footpath. I continued along the B2004 until Lower Rainham where I met a dog walker and enquired about the footpath ahead. The news wasn’t good with only intermittent footpath sections and little verge along a busy road. I returned to the SSW.

I passed by Bloors Wharf, long since flattened and cleared of buildings, with only the occasional mooring post still visible. I followed the SSW out towards a sewage works and then back along Otterham Creek. I passed around a couple of factories and then a few orchards before emerging on a minor road which was far from quiet! In fact, it was damm dangerous as I had to hold myself in the bushes to let cars through and also have eyes in the back of my head! I was on this road for about 800m and successfully missed the SSW turning off the road. This meant I arrived in the village of Upchurc, slightly off route. Annoyed with the SSW, I plotted an alternative route to get me to Lower Halstow where I could re-join the SSW. This worked out quite well and was traffic -free.

Looking out across the Medway to Kingsnorth Power Station
Passing through hop field near Upchurch
St Mary the Virgin Church at Upchurch

The SSW out of Lower Halstow was through a number of horse-paddocks before re-joing the road. The SSW then began to rise towards a short ridge which gave good views across the Medway Estuary to the Isle of Grain. I soon lost any signage for the SSW and could see where people had climbed barbed wire fences and trampled through dense undergrowth in search of the path. The shoreline was only 200m away and I finally gave up with searching for a non-existent path and returned to the road. The road was quiet and quicker which resulted in me making quick progress towards Raspberry Lane. The SSW finally joined the road and crossed over outwards Chetney Marshes, although it only went part of the way. I made the decision to stay on the road, the road bridge across to the Isle of Sheppey was only about a mile away now.

I arrived at the Kingsferry Bridge which carries trains, as well as cars, pedestrians and other traffic were  not allowed to cross the main Sheppey Crossing. The bridge towered above me as I passed underneath it amongst the huge support pillars. I was heading for a marked footpath on the map that headed across fields towards Rushenden and then on to Queenborough. A finger post on the main road pointed the way, but that was the last I saw of any footpath signs. The sea bank had no right of way on it, yet was covered in deep mud from use by off-road motorcycles. I took my compass out setting a bearing towards The White House (on the map) which no longer existed. The large water-sodden field was occupied by grazing cattle which made the underfoot conditions worse. I could not find a way through or around as the railway line, with its ‘live’ rail track was on my right. I retreated after about 30 minutes back to the bridge, totally covered in mud.

I followed the B2231, which had a wide and excellent footpath towards Queenborough. The B road ran adjacent the busy A249 which used the main Sheppey Crossing. It required another section of non-footpath road walking to get to the outskirts of Queenborough and thence pick up a path.

Again not a good days walking and looking ahead access issues on the Isle of Sheppey which will probably mean a shortened visit to the island.


Looking across to the container terminal on The Isle of Grain
The Sheppey Crossing
Approaching the Sheppey Crossing
Below the Sheppey Crossing
Crossing the Kingsferry Bridge


The sea bank on the Isle of Sheppey
The intended footpath route, not looking good!

Distance today = 17 miles
Total distance = 5,894 miles





321. Allhallows to Gillingham

I had booked myself into the Royal Victoria and Bull hotel in the centre of Rochester. I don’t think the place had seen much renovation or decoration since Dicken’s first visited the town in the mid-19th century! Dickens actually did use the Bull (referred to as the Boar) in the Pickwick Papers. In fact there is a lot of Dickens literary connections with Rochester and the surrounding area. As well as living in Chatham for a number of years he died in nearby Higham at Gadshill.

Today was going to be quite easy travel wise. I had left my car parked at the hotel and decided to catch a bus back out to Allhallows. I caught the 07:43 #191 bus from close to my hotel. The bus was almost full, mainly with schoolchildren. Unfortunately, I sat a few seats away from one particularly obnoxious little brat. He spent the entire journey, swearing, cursing and I don’t’ mean the occasional expletive. I don’t know if this is how he talked or behaved at home, who knows, but I was reluctant to intervene, as an adult I feared being accused of almost anything. I kept my mouth shut, waiting for the little sh*t to get off the bus and feeling sorry for the teachers having to deal with this behaviour.

I got off the bus in Allhallows, the journey time had been just over an hour and the cloudless sunny sky had me believing it was going to be warm. Instead I set off walking into a strong headwind, which was very cold. I had decided to avoid the south-east part of the Hoo Peninsula, as it contained just industrial areas container ports, oil storage depots and power stations. Also most the roads did not have footpaths or even verges to walk on, plus I would have to contend with lots of heavy goods traffic. I therefore plotted a route using public footpaths across fields and minor lanes. It was hard work walking into the headwind, as I made my way to Upper Stoke and then across more fields towards the Kingsnorth Power station. There is a single track railway out to the Isle of Grain, where all the industry is located and just before the power station I had to cross the railway line. As I closed the crossing gate behind me a goods train suddenly appeared, the driver sounded his horn (or rather whistle which is what they must do). Fortunately, I had seen the train and just waved to the driver. That’s the first time I have ever been delayed by a passing train on one of these crossings. Close by to the power station was another huge Amazon distribution centre.

Heading out from Allhallows with Southend visible across the Thames
The heavy industry to the SE on the Isle of Grain
Crossing the railway track near Kingsnorth Power Station
Heading down the Medway Estuary

I walked past Kingsnorth Power Station and headed for the Medway estuary joining the sea bank and shortly afterwards by the Saxon Shore Way. The grass sea bank soon disappeared and I had to make my way along a narrow pathway hemmed in by industry and boatyards. The footpath had excellent signage and I was able to pass through without any problems. Soon after the boatyards I had to walk along the stony beach, which would have been impossible at high tide. I soon came across a set of walls and brickwork that at first looked like a limekiln. In fact these were the ruins of Cockham Wood Fort, built in 1669 to guard the approach to Rochester, it was abandoned back in 1818. I eventually emerged with very muddy feet at the village of Lower Upnor. As I climbed the steep steps to get around the Ordnance Yard, the days walking had begun to fatigue me somewhat. It may have been the headwind. After passing through the charming village of Upper Upnor I arrived at a major roundabout which directed traffic towards the Medway Tunnel. I passed through Strood along the recently built Riverside Way. I could now see the Rochester Bridge over the River Medway. I could now see an old submarine moored out in the river. This was an ex-Soviet submarine named Foxtrot B39 built in 1967 and now in private hands awaiting restoration.

I crossed over the Rochester Bridge, which itself was under a re-build and popped into the hotel I was staying at. Here I dropped off my bag and replenished my water supply. I paid a flying visit to Rochester Castle and Cathedral, continuing along the quaint High street. Rochester is certainly a place I would like to return to and explore at greater length. I headed into Chatham, walking along the Dock Road and past the historic Naval Dockyards. I walked through the grounds of the Medway University and onto the Asda store there where I bought some food. My next destination was to walk to Gillingham railway station, where I would join up again with the Saxon Shore Way and end today’s walk by getting a train back to Rochester.

Not a particularly satisfying walk, but progress is always welcomed.

On the Saxon Shore Way through Hoo Marina
Heading along the shoreline of the Medway
The ruins of Cockham Wood Fort
Looking back to Port Werburgh and the heavy shower that just missed me!
Approaching Lower Upnor
The figurehead from HMS Arethusa, the fourth ship of her name
The village of Upper Upnor
An Soviet “Foxtrot” type B-39 submarine awaiting restoration in the Medway
Crossing Rochester Bridge
Rochester High Street
Rare green painted Victorian post box outside the Guildhall Museum in Rochester
The Guildhall in Rochester, just opposite my hotel bedroom window
Rochester Castle
Rochester Cathedral
An interesting way to cover up unsightly railway arches in Chatham
The renovation of Fort Amherst underway
Heading along The Medway in Chatham
Entrance to the historic Dockyards in Chatham

Distance today = 16 miles
Total distance = 5,876 miles


320. Gravesend to Allhallows

March started to throw up all kinds of obstacles to me getting out and doing some serious walking. Although the weather had abated somewhat, at least in the South East, I had a number of important family and domestics matters to sort out; chief of which was the total renovation of our kitchen and laundry room. There was also the more ominous threat of the Covid-19 virus. Although numbers of cases are extremely low in the areas that I intend to walk in, the whole pandemic is a bit of a worry. I decided I needed to get a minimum of three walking days in as I continue my walk along the banks of the River Thames through Kent. I’m unsure if I will be able to get to Scotland in March, if I can’t then it could see me making another three day trip back down to Kent.

I left Shropshire very early, determined to beat the early morning traffic along the M1, M25 and the Dartford crossing, which would be my first crossing as part of my coastal walking challenge. Of course there is also a charge to use this crossing and so I set up an account on the Gov.UK website to prepay the toll. My first crossing was free as the charge is only made from 6 am to 10pm. I was heading for a small village called Allhallows on the Hoo Peninsular, close to the Isle of Grain (although not actually an island) which forms the eastern part of the Peninsula.

I now needed to catch the 06:37 #191 bus to Strood and then a train to Gravesend. The bus was full of schoolchildren, even at this early hour. I had to stay alert as I needed to get off at the right stop in order to make my way to Strood railway station. I had used Google Streetview for reconnoitring the streets and committing them to memory. The station at Strood was very busy with the early morning commuters, a lady near to me sneezed and I instinctively moved away…I know I must be getting paranoid!

By 07:45 I was walking through Gravesend in an easterly direction trying to pick up the Saxon Shore Trail which I would be on for a while before it turned inland. This, it would appear, is what most coastal paths do! I had chosen a three day weather window with clear skies, little chance of rain and only a light breeze. On the drive down I did see that it had been raining overnight and I had brought my walking boots along, just in case it got too muddy. I soon picked up the Saxon Shore Trail at the promenade play area adjacent to the Thames. The next 1.5 miles was through the back streets and alleyways of the industrial area of Gravesend, stepping over fly-tipped rubbish covering the footpath. I soon managed to get onto the sea bank, unfortunately, youths had been using it for practicing their off-road motor bikes skills and together with the grazing ponies, and the sea bank was a bit of a muddy mess in places.

My first place of interest was Shornmead Fort, sitting opposite across the Thames to Coalhouse Fort. However, unlike Coalhouse, this fort was in ruins and covered in graffiti. I passed onto Higham Marshes and through Shorne Marsh Nature Reserve. I was heading past a number of very large old gravel pits that were ideal for returning the land back to nature. I was a bit concerned with the appearance of a large gravel quarry or gravel sand repository in the near distance. In fact the Napoleonic fort I was looking for, Cliffe Fort, was hidden right amongst this quarry and aggregate dumping ground. Fortunately, the footpath I was on was able to pass around both the fort and quarry. Here the Saxon Shore trail disappeared inland for some reason, but I continued on along the sea bank along a public footpath.
The sun had risen now and it was a glorious day to be out walking. I could follow closely the features on the opposite banks of the Thames that I passed through some 3 or 4 walks ago.

The Clock Tower in Gravesend
Heading eastwards along the Thames Estuary
Heading along the back streets of the industrial area in Gravesend
Onto the Sea Wall
The ruins of Shornmead Fort
Gun window at Shornmead Fort
Looking out over Higham Marshes

After Cliffe Fort the next section of the sea bank continued all the way to Allhallows; with little bail-out option other than continuing or returning the way that I had come. Other than the sheep I met on the sea bank I met no other walkers. On my right and the landward side I could see a huge collection of disparate MOD type buildings which were part of a large ammunition during the First World War. I did come across an intentional breach of the Sea Wall to create Salt Fleet Flats Reserve, which was not shown on my 1:25k OS map. The eye became drawn to the large buildings and high rises of Leigh-on-Sea and Southend across the river together with the beckoning sea as the Thames Estuary now had widened considerably.

The last 1.5 miles had a bit of sting in the tail, as the footpath along the river deteriorated rapidly through erosion and was now prone to flooding at high tide and my progress along the shore became blocked by the rising tide. Fortunately I did not have too far to back track to find another route to get me onto to Allhallows. To do this involved climbing onto the ‘ridge’ and high ground that runs along the Hoo Peninsular, which, although only some 35m high provided an excellent view down to the Thames and south-eastwards to the River Medway.

A very good days walk and it was so nice to get away from the issues and pressures that seem to surround us all at this time.

Cliffe Fort
Passing through the aggregate repository at Cliffe Fort
Part of the huge World War 1 ammunition store on Cliffe Marshes
Boundary marker at Lower Hope Point
Heading eastwards along the Sea Wall
A recent breaching of the sea wall to create Salt Fleet Flats Reserve
On the Sea Wall and my first real sandy beach of this leg
Impassable at High Tide and I suspect even at Low Tide!
Looking back down to the Thames and the route I had come
Looking across the Thames to Southend-on-Sea

Distance today = 21 miles
Total distance = 5,860 miles



319. Woolwich Arsenal to Gravesend

I decided to adopt a different approach to my route planning from yesterday; although there was a shoreline path for some miles from Woolwich Arsenal, I would have had to cut inland upon reaching the River Darent. I decided therefore to try something different. There are a number of sites that can do route planning for you and because essentially most of today’s walk would be through suburbia I decided to go with what my https://www.plotaroute.com/myhome route gave me.

A thing I have noticed is that my OS Leisure 1:25000 maps are not that good when it comes to residential streets, in fact, you would be much better off with a London A-Z Streetmap. This meant I had to reprint my maps in a different format, one that would give me street names. At this lower scale I ended up with 17 printed A4 sheets, I should have bought an A-Z! Because I would be changing maps quite frequently, I did not use my map carrying case, but simply folded them up in my jacket pocket. As my automated route was a more direct route, it ended up some 5 miles shorter than my original planned route. However, although I had requested a “walking” route I still had to check that the route had footpaths or pavements. I was certainly intrigued by utilising this approach to route planning, as the situation of walking a complete section through suburbia would probably not materialise again.

I made a very early start, leaving my Basildon hotel and heading again to Tilbury Fort, where I parked my car. I then walked the short distance to the Tilbury landing stage to catch the 05:50 ferry and again was accompanied by the returning night shift from the Amazon warehouse. Again I walked along Gravesend High Street which was deserted being a Saturday morning. I caught the 06:29 train to Woolwich Arsenal. By 07:00 I was walking eastwards along Plumstead Road.

I continued along the mostly deserted streets for 3 or 4 miles before Plumstead Road became Bostall Hill, which also became an open greenspace with trees and parkland. But I was soon back in suburbia and passed from the London Borough of Greenwich into the London Borough of Bexley. I continued along further miles of residential streets before dropping down a hill into the town of Crayford. Here I popped into a Greggs to get myself a bacon/sausage bap and a coffee. Outside a retail park I sat down on a bench to eat my breakfast. The retail park was built on the site of the old Vickers factory which had a huge role in both World Wars. The bench which I sat on, was also occupied by two life-size statues of Alcock and Brown, who, in 1919 made the first successful flight across the Atlantic in a Vickers Vimy, built in the once nearby factory.

5:30 in the morning looking across the Thames to Gravesend from the Tilbury Ferry shelter
Heading down Plumstead Road at Woolwich Arsenal
Plumstead Library
Heading through Bostall Woods
Alcock and Brown

I set off through suburbia again and soon passed into the Borough of Dartford which meant I crossed over in to modern day Kent. By this time, I began to get a feeling of ennui from all this residential traipsing. What did change though was the appearance of hills; with the streets and roads now having more up and downs which coincided with the use of Chert and Flint nodules in boundary walls and the sight of Chalk in some cuttings.

I dropped down a fairly steep hill into Dartford and continued along the High Street which was hosting an open air market. I had actually walked along this street twice before when I came to watch my football team play Dartford. The high street continued up East Hill and I soon crossed over the A282 which was the southern extension of the Dartford Crossing. I continued along the A226 passing through Stone, Greenhithe and Swanscombe which all merged imperceptibly into each other. To the north I could now see industrial areas and the river itself. I crossed over the main line for Eurostar trains and could just make out Ebbsfleet International Station, where I had once caught a  Eurostar train to Brussels. I passed the Ebbsfleet football ground, which I had also visited some years before and continued into Northfleet. For the first time today I diverted from planned route and took a cycle footpath that indicated that Gravesend was 1.75 miles away. I followed the footpath, which was poorly signposted and ended up by the river in a dead-end road full of fly-tipped rubbish! I managed to pick the footpath up again and made my way around a large construction site, which lead onto the wharfs and jetties of Gravesend.

The ferry back across to Tilbury ran every 30 minutes so I did not have long to wait. Quite a different walk which I doubt I would ever repeat, as I much prefer to plot my own route.

Dartford High Street
Crossing the A282 – Dartford Crossing traffic
Looking across to Tilbury Docks from near Northfleet
Heading into Gravesend
Looking across to the Tilbury landing stage
Gravesend High Street
The pontoon for catching the Tilbury Ferry

Distance today = 16 miles
Total distance = 5,839 miles